Level Up Your Doll Sewing - Basic Neckline For Knit Tops

It took me years to work out how to do this, which seems odd when you look at it because it's not that hard. But it goes against sewing rules (you're not meant to top stitch on the wrong side of the fabric), so it wasn't even considered until a few years ago. Before then, I used to do really messy necklines for my tops, and would have to throw out every second top I made because the fabric wouldn't stay in place in curved areas as I sewed! So if you've had similar problems like I have, then I hope this helps you out!

This is specifically for knit/stretch tops. You need the give that knit fabric has to get it to turn over neatly around curves.

Firstly, sew both shoulder seams on your top:

Fold the seam allowance of the neckline over, and pin in place on the wrong side of the garment.

With the wrong side still facing up, stitch your neckline in place. I like to start a little bit to the back of the shoulder seam, so that the backstitching isn't visible at the front of the garment. Use something on your machine foot, like a line or the foot's indent to help keep the stitching an even width away from the neckline edge.

You will need to go as even a speed as you can. What exactly that speed it will vary for each person of course, but too fast and you'll run the risk of your stitching line being uneven as you sew, and too slow and the machine can eat the fabric.

Another two reasons that the machine will eat the fabric is because you're using the wrong needles (knit fabric needs a ball point/jersey needle - lower number for thinner fabrics, higher number for thicker fabrics), or because the fabric is too loose, and is moving around on the machine. To help fix the second issue, try holding the fabric taut between your fingers as you sew, like so:

You want it to be firm, but not stretched out of shape.

Once you have finished sewing, trim away the excess seam allowance. If you don't, it has a tendency to roll up and be visible from the outside.

And then it's done!

As always, if something doesn't make sense, or you need more information, feel free to ask me any questions!

Level Up Your Doll Sewing - Clipping Curves

More of a tips and tricks post than a full on tutorial today, but a really handy one.

Clipping curves can really alter the way your sewing looks and sits on your doll once it is finished.

Clipping curves allows for the seam fabric to move more, so that it can overlap or pull away to create a smooth curve over the body. Without it, curves can look pointed, flat or lumpy.

To clip a curve, simply cut into your seam allowance, stopping short a few millimetres from the stitching line. Once you turn the garment right side out and press, the curve should stay neat and smooth.

Clipping the curve of a pants pocket:

 As you can see, the curve is nice and smooth.

Waist and hips on corsets and dresses are another point where clipping helps with creating shape. Here I have clipped the waist of this corset to help keep its hourglass silhouette.

Probably one of the most important uses of clipping is at the bust, as there is a lot of curvature in a small area.

 

For curves that turn outwards, sometimes you need to cut V shapes into the seam as shown below, rather than just clip, as there is too much fabric in a small area, and you need to reduce bulk.

More info on clipping and reducing bulk in your seams can be found in this post by The Cutting Class.

Level Up Your Doll Sewing - Attaching Hoods

Yes, it has been forever, I know! I've pretty much decided to keep this blog as an archive for my sewing tutorials. If you want to see me post more often, you can find me on tumblr, deviantart or instagram.

But now on to today's tutorial! I realised that I had another tutorial photographed from last year that I never posted up, so I'll do that one in the next couple of days too.

I know I've had requests for patternmaking, but I'm just not quite sure how to present it in a way that will be accessible for as many people as possible. So while I'm working that out, I'm going to stick with sewing techniques to help improve your already existing sewing skills. Today I'm going to show how I sew my hoods and attach them to my hoodies. I will do other collar posts in time, I'd like to show how I finish a number of different necklines.

So first up, sew your hood.

 

Clip the curves of the hood. You do this by snipping the seam allowance with scissors, stopping a few mm short of the stitching. (the other tutorial I mentioned is actually about clipping curves, so I'll get on that asap for you!)

The clipping allows the fabric to move about better, as seen above. It helps give a smoother curve when you turn the fabric right side out.

Lay the hoodie flat, right side face down on the machine. Flatten out your seams and stitch down.

Trim the excess seam.

The outside should look something like this:

Fold and pin the front of the hood and sew in place:

The hood is now ready to sew on to the neck and should look something like this!

Attaching the hood:
Sew both shoulder seams of your top. Turn right side out. Take your hoodie and line one side of the opening up with the centre front, right sides of the fabric together. (I do this by eye, but you can mark the centre front with chalk beforehand)

Pin it in place just at this point.

Now here comes the tricky part, and I wish my photos explained it better. Slowly sew the hoodie to the neckline, using just your hands to turn and position it along the neckline as you go. You may need to stretch it to get it into place. The main things you need to remember is that you want your opening at the centre front, and the centre back seam of your hood at the centre back of the top. (I'm only using one hand in the photo as I'm using the other to take photos of course, but normally I would be using my other hand to make sure the rest of the top is clear from the sewing needle, so that it doesn't get caught).

As you get to the end, line up the other opening of your hoodie and pin it next to the one you've already sewn in place, and finish sewing.

Flip the hoodie over and clip just once near each shoulder seam.

Flip it back over to the right side, and pin the seams to the top:

Double check you've caught the seams with your pins like so:

Lay the top flat on your machine and top stitch the seams to the top.
I usually line the seam line up with the gap in my machine foot, so that I have an even gap of a few millimetres between the seam and the top stitching line. Once again, go slow, and feel under the hoodie as you go making sure that the seams are laying flat and being caught by the stitching.

Once again, flip the top over to the wrong side and trim the seam allowance:

And there you go, your hood is attached!

As usual, let me know if something doesn't make sense, or if you need more pics to explain something better. And I'm always open to suggestions for tutorials!

It's been forever, I know

I went a bit quiet there for awhile, didn't I? My apologies, I was sick for the past month and life got a bit out of control. But I'm trying to be a bit more active on here and other places.

I have a big month ahead! August 4th is the next Melbourne Doll Market, so I'm busily sewing away trying to get all the stock I want made in time. I already work 6-7 days a week, but the month before a market it becomes 7 days a week of 12-14 hour days instead of 8-10 hour days, so I go a bit insane! XD

I'm also having a Christmas in July sale this month! As of midnight tonight (Australian EST) I will be running a free shipping event until July 18. So if there was something you were looking at before, this week is the time to get it!

And because a completely text based post is boring, have some pics of some YoSD outfits I'm working on at the moment.

I fell madly in love with this fabric when I saw it and just had to have it. So now I'm working on these Unicorn Princess Party Dresses for YoSD. They're going to be so colourful and over the top.

Level Up Your Doll Sewing - Gathering

I have been busy and neglecting this blog, I must apologise.

Not a real post from me, but rather a plug for a blog I stumbled upon today. I often see dresses and skirts made for dolls where they haven't allocated enough fabric to get right right fullness for their ruffles or gathered skirt. This post on ruffles by see kate sew is a really good starter on working out ratios, and how cutting your fabric in different ways creates different effects.

So enjoy! And don't forget to comment with any questions or requests for sewing posts you'd like to see from me! :)

Inspiration and Plans

The other week I made a wig for my new doll Nacho:

 It had been the first thing I had made for one of my dolls, and not related to my shop at all in a long time. And it made me want to do more things for my dolls that were just for them, and not a prototype for outfits for the store. So today I went back to some ideas I've been wanting to work on for ages, and did a bit of material sourcing.
While I naturally like to do my own designs for my store, there are pre existing outfits that I love and have always wanted to replicate for my dolls.

First up is Lucy's wedding gown. She's meant to marry Nacho, who is King of the Forest, so she needs something appropriate for the occasion:

 

I have been collecting materials to recreate this McQueen gown for her for years now. It's not easy finding the right scale of lace pattern for hte bodice and sleeves! I have that now, but last year I got a hold of Savage Beauty, the book that accompanied the MET exhibition, and learned that the ruffles were made differently to how I had thought, so I need to buy more fabric for that! I have the Soom Amber clear antlers, and I won't be doing the bubble of lace around her head, so once I get more fabric for the ruffles, I should finally be able to start this!

Another gown I've been wanting to recreate for awhile, is this stunning 50s Balmain gown for Ophelia:

 

Cause who else in my crew but a Queen would wear vintage couture? ;)

I ordered the ostritch feathers today, and found some suppliers of really tiny swarovski hotfix gems, and small sequins. Just need to save up for them and the silk organza.

And then there's the dress which Brendon thinks I'll kill my hands on, and he could be right:

 

 

A gown once worn by Russian Empress Maria Feodorvna, which I desperately want to recreate for my Anastazja. Searching for tiny pearls today I stumbled upon a store having a sale on czech glass ones, so I bought over 6000 pearls in the four different sizes and shapes on this gown. I'm not expecting to make this one any time soon, as I'll need to source the right silk jacquard and lace, but I'm really looking forward to starting on it. 

There's others I'm sure I've forgotten, and some which have sat half finished on my work table for awhile, but these are the three that have been consuming my thoughts of late. 

 

 

Level Up Your Doll Sewing! Pattern Matching and Why I Think It's Important

 Welcome to the second installment of my posts on doll sewing! Instead of specific "how to sew X" tutorials, I have decided to focus more on little tips and tricks to bring your sewing to the next level. Some posts will be more complicated than others, but I do want to try and make each post as easily understandable as possible to most people.

Making tutorials is a very new process for me, so I hope this is clear. If it isn't, do let me know!

Pattern Matching and Why I Think It’s Important

Clothing made from patterned fabric can make an otherwise plain outfit look bold or interesting, but how you use that fabric can determine just how good it looks.

In my last post I briefly touched on the importance of scale in doll clothing, and how the wrong size print can stop a garment from looking realistic. Today I’m going to talk about the importance of balance, specifically in regards to fabric patterns.

Patterned fabric will catch a person’s eye, and naturally we want them to like what they see. Like the composition of a picture, a garment needs to be balanced in order for it to be harmonious. If it isn’t, people may feel something isn’t quite right, even if they can’t put their finger on it. Matching the pattern on your fabric can help with this.

I will be using plaid fabric as an example in this post, as the vertical and horizontal lines help illustrate this balance.

1. Centre front = central focus

Imagine a vertical line down the centre of your body, splitting your body into left and right sides. This is known in sewing as your centre front (and of course the same point on your back is your centre back). This is generally your central point of focus, and you want your fabric to be the most perfectly aligned at this point.

This old Bibian Blue corset is a good example of poor pattern matching at the centre front:

See how one side is slightly lower than the other? This results in the corset having an awkward, slightly sloping look. With geometric patterns like this you need to be level horizontally, or make it obviously diagonal.

With the dress I have made here, I have used the line for my centre front point, as it is the centre of the pattern. This way it will be easier to achieve symmetry and balance cutting out other pieces. The waistband is curved and I knew I wasn’t going to be able to match it to the bodice, so I cut it so that the pattern is obviously diagonal as a contrast.

2. Matching patterns for bodices/dresses
Now if we’re matching patterns on pattern pieces which have a flat edge, it’s naturally a lot easier than something with curves. So how do you get your curved pieces to match up?

Firstly, you are going to have to cut each piece out separately, you can’t fold your fabric in half and cut two pieces. Why? Because the patterns rarely match. You will have much more control if you cut each piece out separately.
Once you have cut out your centre front piece/s, lay out the next piece. Make sure that any horizontal lines match up, especially at the top and bottom of the piece, the bust and the waist. You will use these lines to match your pattern up when sewing the pieces together.

The piece on the right is my centre front piece. The bottom of the piece is on a thin black line, so I have placed my side front piece on the same line. The little lines on my pattern at the curve of the bust is where the bust point is. I have just slightly cut into my pattern so that I know where the bust point is. Making a little cut into the fabric at the bust, waist and hip points can help with pattern matching if you have no horizontal lines on your fabric to match up (just be sure to not cut further in than the seam allowance!)
My cut is in between the thin black line and the thicker patterned line, so I line my side front pattern up the same. Once you have lined them up, cut them out. Then you do the same on the other side, making sure that it mirrors the piece you just cut out.
Then you do the same thing with each piece, lining it up against the connecting piece you just cut out, until you have all your pieces:

Check that everything balances out – your horizontal lines are staying horizontal; and your pieces mirror each other.

3. Matching patterns for pants.
Pattern matching works essentially the same for pants, except that this time the most visible point of matching is the side seam.
Lay your patterns out so that the side seams match, again using any horizontal lines as balance for the hem, crotch and hip lines.

If you have pockets at the front, try and match up the pocket pieces with the front of the pants:

Once it is sewn, the patterns on the pants and pocket should match up like so:

4. Matching as you sew
As you are sewing, make sure you’re matching up any horizontal points. It is usually best to pin those main points together like so:

If they matched up correctly, they should look like this once sewn:

And that's it! I hope that this has been helpful to people! By all means let me know if anything doesn't make sense, or if my tutorials need more pictures to help make things clearer.